Thursday, 13 November 2008

Poolside in Ayutthaya


Poolside in Ayutthaya
Originally uploaded by Bill Bevan
What better place to stay when in hot Ayutthaya then a guesthouse with a pool? It is unusual to say the least to find a backpacker-priced guesthouse with a pool.

We found a couple in big, old colonial courtyard houses in Nicaragua but they were both owned by the same people who had installed what amounted to little more than puddles as part of the backpacker luxury package. Very welcome they were too.

The Ayutthaya pool is much bigger, maybe 10 metres in length, and a one-off in town. It is part of the Sherwood Inn, on one of the roads close to the Ayutthaya ancient ruins. Its very presence epitomises the attitude of the guesthouse manager of providing good, friendly service at a budget price. A double room wil set you back just 280 baht, or 5.50 GB pounds before the exchange rate worsens due to the sinking pound.

Not only is there a pool that is long enough to swim lengths, pleasantly short lengths that is, but there is also plenty of space for yoga, reading and enjoying meals from the great kitchenv Add in a poolside balcony, that has almost become Georgia's private workspace as she completes an editorial contract, and the presence of only five rooms and the Sherwood makes for a very relaxing base to explore the ruins.

Friday, 7 November 2008

Buddha on a Mountain

http://www.flickr.com/photos/billbevan/sets/72157608730241568/

While Georgia went to a local hotel pool, I headed off down the still-quiet streets at 7am to visit the Golden Mount, a temple built on top of a large artificial mound founded on a raft comprising thousands of logs. Strangely surrounded by a market and fair ground, including shooting games, the temple mount is an oasis of calm above the noisy city. A spiralling path winds around the outside of the mount to a temple topped with a red draped golden stupa. Early-rising Thais were already praying and offering flowers and incense to the golden Buddhas inside. Others were making more unusual offerings at the stupa. Marker pens were laid out amongst the flowers and incense for people to write messages on the red cloth cloaking the base of the stupa. Most people would write a message, most likely a wish, take a small orange pillow with a folded cut-out cardboard flower, kneel to offer it to the stupa then circle the stupa three or four times. After they finished, they would pin a 20 baht note onto a criss-cross of washing line suspended above head height.

Lady Boys and Tofu...

...never let you down.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/billbevan/sets/72157608730241568/

It is great to be back in Bangkok again. The city reaches out with an instant warm welcome unsurpassed by any other major capital we have yet been to. It starts at the airport with the gentle smiles and easily given directions from courteous staff and continues on the quite airport express bus into the city centre that cruises along empty four-lane highways - at least until it meets the clogged arteries of dowtown. The easy welcome carries on in the reception desks of the backpacker hotels as you are handed keys to check out the rooms, but most of all the pleasant feeling of arrival is everywhere on the streets. This is due to two major cultural Thai traits. Thais don't rush and they eat on the streets. Every Thanon and Soi is lined with eateries, offering cheap stir-fries, fresh chilled fruit that varies from the recognisable pineapple and melon to the more Asian exotica that is the aptly named Dragon Fruit and the pungent Durian.

In our first two days here we have done some of our favourite activities in Bangkok. After checking in to the cheap but very clean Bella Bella Guesthouse in Banlampu, the first thing we did was to grab some fresh stir-fried food from a street vendor. We found a stall specialising in vegetarian food, so we didn’t have to hover over the dried shrimps and say no repeatedly until we had received the food without their liberal application, while enjoying fantastically cooked and delicious tofu with garlic, fried vegetables with tofu and spicy salad with tofu. Next door was a smoothie bar run by two lady boys. All around were pot plants on the street. We then took a ferry down the river to get a cool breeze and away from the traffic noise and followed that with a Thai massage in a tranquil garden. Georgia then called into a 7-11 for an ice lolly. That finished the evening, and a stretch of 32 hours flying without sleep, perfectly. We were in bed after 9pm, jetlag beating.

The next day, Friday 7th, we visited the Royal Barges Museum, a floating delight of sparkling gold leaf, coloured glass and ornate wood carving. There are four graceful boats still kept to in immaculate condition to carry the royal family along the river for major ceremonies. The bowhead of each is carved into a mythical being that carried one of Brahma or Vishnu in Indian epics, including a multi-headed serpent-like Naga, a garuda and a bird. The walk to the museum was along narrow alleys between houses given a glimpse of how Bangkok may have been 50 years ago before the rise of concrete and futuristic skyscrapers. We went on the river again then had a failed evening of shopping and drinking, the mall had closed by the time we got there, the skybar enforced a no sandle dress code. We made up for it with a beer under a tree back on the street of or guest house.

Stottie Welcome to Newcastle


P_DSC_6805_1
Originally uploaded by Bill Bevan
Which other airport boasts a Greggs the Bakers next to the Check-In desks? Every airport should have one so that pasties, buns and stotties are available the minute you land or for a last taste of Britain before flying. I was tempted to take a stottie to show off our ethnic cultural food to Thais but the added weight would have put my bags over the weight allowance. They will have to wait another time. Even better were the normal highstreet prices, infact a cheese and onion pastie here was 10p cheaper than Sheffield city centre. Tea was good but the coffee was reportedly washing-up water standard.

Friday, 3 October 2008

From Buccanear to F'Kinnear

When Joe Kinnear held his first bleeping press conference as manager of Newcastle United. 

The first press conference perfomance by Newcastle United's latest new manager takes me back to the mid-1990s. King Kevin Keegan ruled supreme and Newcastle had such a attack-minded swashbuckling style that they became styled the Entertainers and everyone's second favourite team. Keegan put all in his buccaneering football philosophy and eventually missed out on the Premiership title by a handful of points. Joe Kinnear's surprise appointment to replace Keegan after the Messiah's second coming came to an abrupt end attracted plenty of press amazement. Joe has quickly demonstrated his attacking credentials too. This time it was the assembled journalists who were on the defensive rather than a flat-footed back four as Joe launched into a tirade of F and C words.

The ensuing media attention has made most of how many words have to be bleeped before any of his conference could be broadcast. There is an old adage I have now stopped using when thinking about Newcastle. The one that goes 'it can't get any worse.' Newcastle's stock has plunged quicker than the Dow Jones and instead of the Bank of America coming to the rescue we have someone from Nigeria who, I'm all too sure, has promised to buy the club by email in return for Ashley's bank account details. I would not put it past our lager-swilling mate of the terraces to fall for the scam after being careless enough not to check out the mortgage repayment conditions on St James's Park. How can people become so rich while being so careless?

So what next in the comedy revue that currently is Newcastle United Football Club? I shudder to think what might be round the next corner, who will be behind the next own goal and when they will be next put on the spot. 


Thursday, 11 September 2008

Will You Buckle?

Will Buckley performs as the Man Who Wants to be Read in front of an audience of journalism hopefuls at Hepstontall, West Yorkshire. Meanwhile England are beating Croatia 4-1.

Will Buckley sits, slouches and slides around in the faded armchair for an Audience with… in front of a semi-circle of 16 budding journalists. Buckley’s adrenalin-fuelled performance as the self-styled wine swigging, bar-propping journalist coincidentally coincides with England’s resounding victory against Croatia in their World Cup qualifier. It is somewhat ironic that while the Observer’s Senior Sports Writer is given a talk chaired by the Sunday Mirror’s Senior Sports Writer, England are winning their most memorable victory since demolishing Germany 5-1 oh so many years ago. There are a few England fans amongst these wannabe journalists and none of us are able to watch the historic match. At least we start with a match update from Steve, the centre manager. "England are one-nil up." The football fans amongst us are still hankering for the pub at the top of the hill with Setanta Sports. But, alas, the lottery of the journalism course schedule means we are barred from seeing what turns out to be a famous win and another hat trick from a dashing young England forward. Instead, we are face-to-face with Buckley’s dinosaur hack on the edge of an extinction brought on, not by global warming or volcanic eruption, but by the man-made disaster to thoughtful newspaper writing that is the world wide web. 

This hyper-active, wiry ‘Charles Hawtrey on speed’ figure of a man with Edward Scissorhand’s haircut reads from his novel The Man Who Hated Football before tackling questions thrown in from the touchline. He stutters, murmurs and shrugs his way through each answer before catching himself digress so far from the subject that he often returns to the same query “what was the question?” He animates anecdotes with an ensemble of comic voices, punctuates points with swirling arms and occasional finger-splayed karate chops to mid air, crosses and uncrosses his legs like a well-dressed Kenny Everett. The only drag is the occasional pull on his plastic Simulated Cigarette nicotine substitute. Buckley’s humour is always to the fore from the journalist who was once, if briefly, a stand-up comic who ended his comedy career in front of a silent audience in Birmingham. The wine goes down and the fevered pitch goes up as he rails against online information overload and instant Internet reporting culled from 24 hour rolling TV news. The only interruption is Steve shouting out the latest score from Croatia. 4-1! But we are so dazzled by Buckley’s performance that the full meaning of what is being played out by England will only sink in with tomorrow's papers.

Buckley freely admits that if he were starting out now he would work on the web though he dislikes the lack of in-depth journalistic writing that it creates. “The web offers great opportunities for new journalists if you are prepared to be dedicated to sending in words, video and photos direct from locations.” He believes that the main thing the journalist should achieve is being challenged by Internet journalism. “The one thing a journalist can do is watch and write about an event and be trusted by the reader to choose what aspects of the event are important. A writer wants to be read, a reader wants to get to the end of the piece. To get the reader to the end means you have succeeded.” He vividly describes the ranks of Guardian web journalists reeling out thousands of words across the globe from the Beijing press office, most typing their copy below TV screens. “One of them wrote as many words in an afternoon as I’ve written in a decade!” The demand from newspaper editors for getting copy onto the Internet instantly is, Buckley argues, devaluing journalism.

Buckley fears for the final extinction of an older, beer-stained, newspaper culture. “The Observer office was a like a dysfunctional club. Nick Cohen could be found asleep under his desk. We used to drink in the Coach and Horses. It was owned by a friend of the Richardsons, not the Krays. No one knew who was inside the dark rooms hidden behind stained-glass windows. You could catch-up with other Observer correspondents returning from assignments in places such as Iraq.” When the traditional pub was converted to a modern cafĂ© bar and the stained-glass replaced with clear “now everyone can see where we spend our time.”

The days of the drinking hack are clearly marked as the Guardian embraces the immediacy that the Internet offers. Buckley brings back the discussion to the Internet again and again. At one point he questions some of the benefits offered by the web. “Will the Internet undermine celebrity control? Will it really be as democratic as promised?” His own answer on the future of journalism in the digital age is, by necessity, inconclusive but highly pertinent “It’s so fluid now that no one knows what’s going on.”

Wednesday, 23 July 2008

Time Team

I was up on a remote, bleak moorland top in the Yorkshire Dales National Park in mid-July filming an episode of Time Team for broadcast in February 2009.

 It was a lot of fun and a very interesting experience. Each episode is filmed over 3 days. Basically there is a proper archaeological evaluation carried out with Phil Harding taking the lead in directing one or more of the trenches while John Gator and Stuart Ainsworth give suggestions on where to place trenches. At the same time 3 film crews are making a TV programme. Two separate crews connected by dirt and the past. They intersect regularly through the days - either led by the TV crew who have pre-arranged interviews and discussions to film or by the diggers when they make discoveries and have a part of the story to tell.

The main Time Team characters are mostly real archaeologists who can turn on TV-friendly lines when called upon. Tony Robinson, the only trained actor, is a master at this. One moment getting his coffee cup rained in to, the next smiling and asking the 'right' questions of one of the archaeologists with just a few minutes briefing.

Despite the daily torrential rain everyone remained good-natured and a decent evaluation was carried out. The programme is about navvies on Risehill Tunnel, part of the Carlisle to Settle line. As someone who has spent some time researching navvies through archaeology it was a great opportunity to see a navvy site being excavated, to see some of my ideas being tested and to be able to interpret the features and finds based on my experience at Tin Town. It was also great to catch up with some archaeological friends I've not seen for a while - Stuart Ainsworth, Francis Pryor and Deborah Anderson.

   
   

Sunday, 6 July 2008

Word and Violin and Hebden Bridge

A trip up the A629 on Friday, a first visit to Hebden Bridge, a reunion with Colm and Pireeni who we met in Honduras, an evening of poetry and violin. A day when different places, different times collided in West Yorkshire.

We had met Pireeni and Colm on a bus in Honduras between Christmas and New Year 2008. A conversation was struck, a friendship forged over bumpy hill roads. She is Anglo-Tamil Sri Lankan, he Irish and they live together in San Francisco. Amongst many things, she is a poet and he a fiddle composer/player who go by the name of Word and Violin. By luck or fate they were booked to play the Hebden Bridge Arts Festival only 50 miles or so north of Sheffield and we had the happy opportunity to meet again. No buses, no bumpy roads but lots of hills.

Their concert entertained, provoked thought, informed and transported across the globe, meeting again and again in the common threads of Sri Lankan and Irish history and politics. They are worth catching if they play near where you live. Even better for us, was the chance of reacquainting - in tea shops, on hills, by canals, while walking.

www.wordandviolin.com